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Theatre Reviews
by Jeniva Berger



| GROOM Fashion
TO TUX OR NOT TO TUX

THE MEN'S ATTIRE
The style and theme of your wedding will dictate what you will be wearing. If you need a tux and you don't own one - few men do - you can borrow or rent one. If your wedding has a theme, your outfit will be a theme costume which you can borrow, rent or have made. If you are buying a "theme" suit, make sure that the wedding details and theme are clearly indicated, so that the sales personnel can give you their maximum help.

For formal and semi-formal weddings, a tux is traditionally worn. The temperature will dictate the fabrics. Unless you are having a theme wedding, formal attire is usually not worn in the daytime.

For informal weddings, single-color suits or jackets with contrasting trousers are worn. Depending on the season and climate, the colors go from gray to navy blue. Shirts are soft white and ties that are done with a four-in-hand knot. Shoes are white or black dress with matching socks. If you are in a military service, you can decide if you want to be married in your dress uniform or "civvies".

The Best Man and his Attendants will dress in the same style as the Groom.

Because the Groom's father is not in the wedding party, he does not have particular fashion requirements.  However, he may dress in the same fashion as the father of the Bride or he may dress as the invited guests do.

For the Groom - your Bride will decide if she wants you to wear a flower from her bouquet, which is a romantic custom. White rosebuds are the most popular choice. For the Best Man - his boutonnière is different than yours and can be selected from the Maid of  Honor's bouquet.  Groomsmen's boutonnières are different and are often a single carnation or a flower selected from the Bridesmaids' bouquets. Fathers and grandfathers of the couple - if they choose to wear boutonnières they should also be different from yours and the Best Man's. Traditionally, a single flower or flowers taken from the Bridesmaids' bouquets are appropriate. Other male relatives who aren't in the wedding party but who want to join in on the celebration also wear boutonnières.

Formal Wear Tips - A waistcoat is a vest. The ascot  is a scarf-like tie looped under the chin, worn with a cutaway coat. The white tie and white vest are worn with a winged-collar shirt, a black tailcoat and matching trousers. The cutaway, also known as a morning coat, is the daytime formal tailcoat. It comes in black or gray and is worn with striped trousers. The walking coat or stroller is a slightly longer black or gray jacket also worn with striped trousers. The slip-on shoe is a plain dress shoe in black patent or smooth leather such as kid. The opera pump is a patent leather slip-on shoe with grosgrain bows on the toes. The pocket square handkerchief is small and dressy, worn in the upper jacket pocket. It is not worn with a boutonnière. The formal dress shirt collar has a stiff stand-up collar with folded-down tips.

Formal Styles
Daytime (before 6 p.m.) - The groom wears a morning suit that is a black or charcoal gray cutaway jacket with striped trousers, a pearl gray waistcoat, stiff white shirt with a fold-down collar, and a tie or a traditional ascot. It is worn with black silk socks and black kid shoes.
Evening (after 6 p.m.) - The groom wears white tie and tails or a black tailcoat, black trousers, white piqué bow tie, a white wing-collar shirt and vest. Tuxedos have a black or ivory dinner jacket and trousers with a satin or grosgrain stripe down the outside of the pant leg; cummerbunds are worn with single-breasted jackets which hide the waist-band when the jacket is open. Suspenders instead of belts hold up the pants. Black patent leather or kid shoes are the order of the day.

Semi-formal
Daytime (before 6 p.m.)
A suit-style dark gray or black stroller jacket is worn with stripe pants and worn with a soft white shirt, tie, and black shoes. An Edwardian suit may be worn, but it gives a costume effect with wide velvet lapels and a ruffled, white or colored shirt.
Evening (after 6 p.m.)
A black or midnight-blue or white dinner or tuxedo jacket and matching trousers, piqué or pleated-front white shirt with attached collar, black bow tie and black waistcoat or cummerbund worn with black patent leather or kid shoes.

Informal day and evening
Depending on the climate and what the bride is wearing, you can choose a  light or dark suit, a navy blue jacket with white trousers, a white jacket with dark gray trousers, or a tuxedo. Suits and jackets are worn with a white soft shirt, striped or a small patterned tie, with black dress socks and oxfords.

General Tips
• Ties and pocket squares are not meant to match;
• Suspenders or braces are used to hold up the trousers when a cummerbund is worn;
• Cummerbund is a pleated waist cover which is worn instead of a vest. It usually matches a bow tie. Depending on what fashion is "in", cummerbunds come in plain colors, tartans or prints. Pleats of the cummerbund always point up;
• A double-breasted tuxedo jacket is kept buttoned (worn without a cummerbund);
• Traditionally, evening attire is not worn during the daytime, but today grooms have choices just like brides and they wear what they want.
• Usually only the Ushers wear white gloves;
• Shoes may be rented with tuxedos; in fact, the rental package can include everything but your underwear;
• For out-of-town groomsmen, most formal rental stores issue written instructions and a self-addressed measurement form. If the store is part of a chain, usually fittings can be arranged at no charge.

FINISHING TOUCHES
Cuff links come in all shapes, colors, materials, prices and often with coordinated studs for shirts to complete your wedding outfit.
Helios Cufflinks, in the Mythos Collection by Nathan Tim, pictured right, are shown in orange core suspended in fire red that are made by hand using Italian Murano glass and stainless steel. Price  US$395. Sapphire Lapis and Sapphire Cufflinks in 18k Yellow Gold, left. Price US$3,595. White Brazilian Drusy and Diamond Cufflinks in 18k Yellow Gold. The design is white drusy quarried from the Brazilian highlands with complementing black diamonds, bottom left. Price US$3,495. Visit www.nathantim.com.

www.WeddingsHoneymoons.com | June 25, 2008
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